Alexander Megos

Alexander began climbing at the age of six. At just ten years old he was climbing 300m multi-pitches with his father. In 2006 Alexander began training with the local bavarian team “Landesstützpunkt Franken” and later with “Bundesstützpunkt Sportklettern” in Erlangen-Nürnberg, where he met his coaches Ludwig “Dicki” Korb and Patrick Matros, who still coach him today.

Alexander’s ascent of Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain in 2013, when he was 19, is the world’s first published 9a onsight.

On the 9th of May 2018, Alexander clipped the chains on his first 9b+ (5.15c) “Perfecto Mundo”, (first ascent, route bolted by Chris Sharma). Other notable ascents include “Fightclub” 9b – First Ascent and “First Round First Minute”.

In 2017, Megos won silver in both the Bouldering European Championships, in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018 he won bronze at the IFSC Lead World Cup in Chamonix and one week later won Gold in the Briancon World Cup. Later in the year he won bronze in the Lead World Championships. He followed this up with a silver in the 2019 Lead World Championships, and qualified for the combined finals and thereby qualifying for the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo.

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Favourite climbs

Here are just a few of my favourite climbs!

Climbs

  • Action Directe, 11 (UIAA Scale), Frankenjura, Germany
  • Super Pod, 5.14d (YDS USA Scale), New River Gorge, USA
  • Supernova, 11+ (UIAA Grade), Frankenjura, Germany
  • Enter The Dragon, 34 (Ewbank Scale), Grampians, Australia
  • 50 words for pump, 5.14c (YDS USA Scale), Red River Gorge, USA

Boulders

  • Lucid Dreaming, V15, Buttermilks, California, USA
  • Wheelchair, ~V16, Grampians, Australia
  • Wheel of Life, V15, Grampians, Australia

Comps and awards

  • 2019: 2nd place: Lead World Championships
  • 2018: 3rd place: Lead World Championships
  • 2018: 1st place: IFSC Lead World Cup, Briancon
  • 2018: 3nd place: IFSC Lead World Cup, Chamonix
  • 2017: 2nd place: European Bouldering Championships
  • 2017: Alex Megos, Master de Boulder, Chile 2017
  • 2017: CWIF: 1st place
  • 2015: North Face Cup (Japan): 1st place
  • 2015: CWIF (IFSC Promo Competition): 1st place
  • 2014: La Sportiva Legends only: 2nd place
  • 2010: European champion (Youth)
  • 2009: European champion (Youth)
  • 2008: German champion (Youth)

  • Winner Salewa Rock Award 2015
  • Nomination Salewa Rock Award 2014
  • Nomination Salewa Rock Award 2013
  • Golden Piton 2013

Links to cool people

Ken EtzelKen Etzel
Photographer and ecologist based in Bishop, Ca

 
 
Liam LonsdaleLiam Lonsdale
Photographer, presenter, writer